Discovering the Natural Wonders of Argentina: A Biodiversity Adventure
Our decision to visit Argentina stemmed from the allure of its diverse flora and fauna. Intrigued by what the country had to offer, we eagerly planned our trip.
Visa No Visa?
In preparation, we secured a comprehensive package, arranging all internal flights through Aerolíneas Argentinas, the national airline. Opting for a multicity flight, we found that JFK provided a direct route to Buenos Aires, serving as a convenient hub for internal connections to major cities across Argentina.
For U.S. citizens, obtaining a visa is not required. However, if you are an Indian citizen with a U.S. visa, an e-visa is needed. We submitted our e-visa application two weeks before our trip. Unfortunately, with only four days left and no visa in hand, anxiety set in, prompting a visit to the New York embassy. Despite their inability to assist, an email to the D.C. embassy proved fortuitous. They made an exception on their national holiday, ensuring the issuance of our tourist visas. While the e-visa eventually arrives before boarding, we recommend applying for the tourist visa directly to avoid any reliance on last-minute approvals. The Argentina embassy in D.C. gave us a glimpse of the treatment we would receive for the rest of our trip, which was extremely helpful and welcoming.
Travel In NYC
On November 21st, we started our journey early, departing from our homes at 8 AM. Almost missing our flight became a close call due to delays at the JFK Parking shuttle because of the holiday and Thanksgiving rush. Fortunately, our Uber driver's swift maneuvers and the kindness of a security officer who helped us skip the lines saved the day.
Off to Buenos Aires
As for the in-flight experience, we took off at 3:30 PM for Buenos Aires. Despite the lengthy 12-hour flight, the combination of entertainment, some onboard rest, and delicious food kept us company. We touched down at Buenos Aires EZE airport at 4 AM.
During our time at the airport, we took photos with Messi's statue and, of course, a tribute to Maradona. An interesting currency situation happened as we were offered a transfer rate from dollars to pesos at 1 to 350, but we declined. Instead, we learned about the more advantageous Blue dollar exchange, which was more valuable at that moment.
Arriving at the EZE airport without pesos, we opted for an Uber at 4 AM, heading from EZE to AEP, a 50-minute drive. Utilizing Chase Sapphire, we benefited from a favorable conversion rate comparable to the blue dollar rate. Given the early morning hours, everything was virtually closed. At the regional AEP airport, where facilities were minimal, we checked in our luggage and found respite in a modest setting.
AEP, appearing distinctly local, boasted only coffee shops and a couple of chairs. Exhausted from our overnight flight and the hustle, we slept as if the chairs were the most luxurious beds in the world.
El Calafate
Boarding a small flight to El Calafate at 11 AM, we landed in what seemed to be the smallest airport in El Calafate. But offering a breathtaking view of the blue lagoon.
Upon arrival, we sought a taxi to reach the town and collect our rental car. Rental cars proved to be the priciest aspect of our Argentina journey. After picking up the car, we indulged in the town's finest empanadas, making them our afternoon snack. With an exchange from Western Union, we started our Unexpected Beauty on the Road: El Calafate to El Chalten.
Anticipating a 4-hour drive, we were pleasantly surprised when the journey took only 2 hours. However, the brief duration was filled with numerous stops, compelled by the captivating beauty of nature. It turned out to be one of the most enchanting and serene drives of my life, a gateway to heaven.
As we traversed the route, the Patagonian mountains unfolded, revealing lagoons and rivers formed by melting glaciers while clouds engaged in a mesmerizing dance overhead. Our path led us to El Chaltén, a small town tailor-made for hikers. Nestled beautifully in the valley, it comprised around 100 houses crafted for tourists. The city featured a main road with two additional side roads. Surprisingly, even at 9:30 PM, daylight persisted at night, which is characteristic of the region in summer months.
We concluded our day by dining at a restaurant named 'Methilda,' savoring bowls of delicious curry that would stand out as the best food of the entire trip. With an early morning hike on the agenda, we called it a night at 11 PM.
Hike of our Life: Torres Del Paine Viewpoint
At 5 AM, we sprang into action, swiftly preparing for our hike right from our Airbnb in the town. While waiting for the cab, we crossed paths with two fellow adventurers, Maggie and Luyi, both hailing from New York. The starting point of our hike was approximately 1 K.M. from the Airbnb, and as we all set out as a group, our gaze fixed on the majestic Mount Fitz Roy.
Bundled up in layers of jackets to combat the biting cold, we commenced the initial three to four kilometers of the climb. Right from the first kilometer, it became evident that this journey wouldn't be a walk in the park. We felt the increasing warmth as the sun rose, prompting us to shed our winter attire. Though we had water on hand, we didn't need much, thanks to the water sources flowing along the hike. The first three kilometers treated us to breathtaking views and a challenging ascent, though the sunrise eluded us, concealed behind the towering mountain.
Completing the next five kilometers of our hike, we encountered a refreshing stream of clear water nearby. Revel in the journey while it lasts because the last two kilometers present a formidable challenge with a steep incline. As you ascend, the panoramic views of snow-covered mountains and the cascading waters from glaciers create an awe-inspiring experience beneath your feet. Despite the warnings for the final two kilometers, emphasizing the need for physical fitness, we persevered and reached the summit after a two-hour climb.
Atop Mount FitzRoy, the pristine landscape unfolded before us. The frozen lake was a sight to behold, and the sensation of standing on the icy water was remarkable. Pushing hiking sticks into the ice allowed us to touch the lake's frozen surface and water beneath. We descended to get up close and personal with the frozen lake. After absorbing the breathtaking scenery, we ventured further to witness a cliff and the most vivid blue water I had ever seen. The scene's beauty was so overwhelming that it nearly brought tears to my eyes.
As thrilling as the climb upward had been, the descent proved equally arduous. Fatigued legs resisted moving, and the thought of another upward step was almost unbearable. While descending, we glimpsed the lake but had little desire to ascend again. To alleviate the pain, we opted to run down, hoping to expedite our return.
Taking a brief break by a river, we refreshed ourselves by washing our faces with the cold water and replenishing our energy with a drink. The 30-kilometer hike was no small feat; at this point, thoughts were fixated on food. Upon reaching home, a rejuvenating hot shower was followed by a satisfying meal enjoyed by friends before hitting the sack. The 30-kilometer hike presented its challenges, but the journey was a source of enjoyment and accomplishment.
Glacier Huemul: Silver mountain
During dinner, fellow tourists at the restaurant shared details about another lake and hike, emphasizing the breathtaking journey to the starting point an hour away. Intrigued by their description of the pristine road, we decided to explore it the next day, albeit with a lazy start. A soak in hot water alleviated the stiffness, and after a delightful breakfast at a nearby bakery, 'Roti,' we embarked on our journey to Glacier Huemul.
The road was far from smooth, adding an element of excitement through off-roading and small bridges. Along the way, pristine water from the river and playful flamingos heightened the adventure. Despite realizing that the hiking starting point was a 2.5-kilometer climb, it appeared deceptively easy at that moment. The hike proved to be good, but the finale was truly breathtaking. Glacier Huemul stood majestically, a colossal mountain of melting snow pushing water into the laguna. The subzero water chilled the feet within 30 seconds, tempting thoughts of a cold plunge. Imagining the experience, I couldn't resist; within minutes, I found myself submerged. The initial shivers were quickly replaced by a revitalizing sensation, making it the most fantastic feeling, although I couldn't linger for long. After a brief meditation, I descended from the mountain, running alongside army personnel practicing their maneuvers. Reaching the bottom, we discovered a pristine lake and spent some tranquil moments by its shores.
Dining in Argentina
From there, we commenced our drive back to El Chaltén, reveling in what proved to be the most picturesque journey. Settling in El Chaltén, we dined at a restaurant; though I am not a huge fan of roasted meat and bread, the local delicacy seemed outside my dining preferences.
The following morning, we woke up anticipating reaching the pinnacle of our trip—Glacier Perito Moreno. The drive was beautiful and exciting as the landscape unfolded with mountains, snow, glaciers, and lagoons.
Glacier Perito Moreno: The name is enough
As we approached Glacier Perito Moreno, the enormity of this natural marvel, towering 240 feet high and stretching 17 miles in length, became increasingly apparent. Our journey led us closer to the glacier, navigating stairs on an overlook and boardwalk that provided easy access. From this vantage point, we witnessed the glacier's majestic height, with ice walls cascading into the water. The spectacle included the awe-inspiring sight of the glacier cracking and parts separating from the central ice mass.
We proceeded to the boat reservation tour's port, where the boat transported us remarkably close to the glacier despite the intense winds. Upon disembarking, our tour guide led us in proximity to the glacier, offering insights into the geographical nature of these ice formations. In their constant motion, the glaciers create friction on the ground, producing pebbles and small stones that become integral to the glacier's structure. Wind tunnels and small rivers within the glaciers were visible, the rivers formed by the melting ice creating tunnels to find an exit.
Entering one of these caves, we marveled at the glacier's humbling beauty, a mesmerizing palette of white, blue, and shades beyond our eyes or cameras' ability to capture adequately. The dripping water from the glacier's walls created a shiny appearance and tasted terrific, prompting a momentary pause to eat and drink the pristine ice and water.
Returning to the boat, which offered a drink made from the glacier ice known as Calafate, we encountered floating icebergs going downstream in the river. Eventually, we embarked on our journey back to the airport, savoring the memories of the stunning landscapes. After returning the car, we quickly stopped at the Empanadas store and ice cream parlor to indulge in some delightful ice cream before concluding our memorable adventure. Do try El Calafate ice cream and explore some local markets. I love roaming in the local grocery stores to understand what is consumed.
Luggage Fiasco with Buenos Aires
After our flight, we arrived at the airport to get our luggage. However, upon landing at BA EZE airport, our luggage was nowhere to be found. Despite a thorough search, luck was not with us. Frustrated, we filed a complaint, and in a desperate move, I sought the assistance of the front desk supervisor. On our request, he reached out to his connections at other airports, and after an hour of suspense and anxiety, we learned that our luggage was at AEP.
Considering the airport was 40 minutes and midnight, we booked an Uber. It being a Saturday night, Buenos Aires, the city that never sleeps, was coming alive with party buses on the road. The total travel time amounted to about 2 hours, and finally, we reached the other airport to retrieve our bags. The mystery of how they ended up there remained unsolved, perhaps a mix-up with another following day.
Our exploration in Buenos for brunch Aires continued as a warm, vibrant, and fascinating neighborhood renowned for its burst of colors. Legend has it that the locals, utilizing leftover paint from the nearby dock, contributed to the creation of this colorful community. The streets are adorned with beautiful murals, and statues embellish the facades of people's homes, creating a visually stunning atmosphere.
Senor Tango
Returning home, we took a moment to refresh before heading out to experience the renowned Senor Tango. The Tango show featured everything from horses on stage to operatic singing. Although the entire show was in Spanish, the talent of the performers, including mesmerizing tango dance performances and singers, transcended language barriers. The show extended late into the night, providing an unforgettable cultural experience.
Spa day to conclude
The following day, we decided to indulge in a spa day. Our escapade began with a visit to the market, where we enjoyed some excellent fresh juice. Later, we treated ourselves to a spa session that included facial cleansing and a massage for Shivani. I opted for a shiva massage, a Californian massage that proved to be incredibly rejuvenating. Our spa experience didn't end there. Seeking the ultimate relaxation, we ventured to Ahin, one of the most prestigious spas in Buenos Aires. In their spa suite, we enjoyed luxurious massages with impeccable service. The favorable Blue Dollar exchange rate made these indulgent experiences surprisingly affordable.
Our time in Argentina was truly enchanting, and we wrapped up our trip with these rejuvenating spa services. Reluctantly, we headed to without leaving the fantastic memories and experiences behind.
Argentina had captured our hearts, wanting with a desire to return for more.
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